🏞️ A step off the grid

If Chiang Mai felt like slowing down, Khao Sok felt like stepping off the grid entirely. Deep in southern Thailand, the rainforest spills into emerald water, limestone cliffs rise straight out of the mist, and the air hums with a kind of quiet that feels almost alive. It’s one of the most surreal places we’ve ever seen — but also one of the most remote.

🌿 The Stay: Panvaree Resort

We stayed at Panvaree, one of the floating bungalow resorts on Cheow Lan Lake. It was, surprisingly, the most expensive place we stayed in Thailand — and also the most rudimentary.

The experience itself was unforgettable, but not in the “luxury escape” way their photos might suggest. The rooms aren’t sealed, and ants found their way into our luggage (definitely a low point). There’s no bug net provided, and power only runs at night — which makes sense in such a remote area, but it’s worth knowing before you go.

Meals were included (unexpectedly), along with the daily boat tours — a nice bonus, though both were repetitive. The staff were friendly but strict with timing; miss your boat by even a minute, and it will leave without you.

We stayed two nights and honestly would recommend one night max — or even just a day trip if you’re short on time. The location itself is stunning, but the resort experience felt far from the luxury price tag.

There’s also the “upgrade” — Panvaree The Greenery, which is basically the same resort, just across the water. It might be a touch newer, but the setup and environment looked identical to us.

🌄 The Setting: Pure magic

Now, the reason to go — and it’s a good one. The scenery is unreal. Towering cliffs rising from turquoise water, rain clouds drifting low over the jungle — it feels cinematic. Watching the rain from our bungalow porch, the world perfectly still except for ripples on the lake, was one of the calmest moments of our trip.

You’ll need to pack snacks or anything you think you might want, because once you’re there, you’re there. No shops, no signal, no runs to 7-Eleven — just quiet, nature, and time.

Our bungalow shared a deck wall with neighbors, which can be a toss-up. We got unlucky both nights. But even with that, there were moments of peace I wouldn’t trade.

🌺 Would we do it again?

Maybe. But next time, we’d stay one night — or splurge on one of the truly high-end floating resorts like Rai Lake View (it looked incredible from the water).

Khao Sok is one of those places that reminds you why you travel in the first place — not for comfort or luxury, but to see something completely other.

✈️ How to visit Khao Sok

Getting there:
Fly into Surat Thani Airport (URT) — the closest gateway to Khao Sok. From there, book a private transfer to Ratchaprapha Dam, which takes about two hours. Most floating resorts will help arrange this for you if you message them directly.

At the dam:
You’ll check in at a small restaurant area near the dock — it’s not fancy, and can feel a bit sketchy, but that’s where the process starts. Be prepared for some confusion; we missed the “free boat” by a few minutes and had to wait for the next one, which cost about $50 USD for a private ride.

The ride itself is about 45 minutes, and once you arrive at the resort, they’ll give you a printed schedule for your included meals and tours. From there, it’s pretty straightforward — just follow the rhythm of lake life.

Leaving:
At the end of our stay, we took the resort’s free boat back to the dam and caught a private transfer straight to Krabi, which was smooth and easy to arrange.

🧳 What to pack for Khao Sok

Khao Sok isn’t the kind of place where you can run to a shop if you forget something — so pack smart. Here’s what we’d bring next time (and what saved us this time):

Essentials:

  • 🦟 Bug spray — 7-Eleven sells an effective local one (and you’ll want it).
  • 🌞 Sunscreen — for the boat rides and any mid-day tours.
  • 💧 Drinks + snacks — we brought a few Changs and some snacks from town; everything’s pricey once you’re on the lake.
  • 📱 Waterproof phone pouch — absolutely essential for boat tours.
  • 🧥 Poncho or rain jacket — you’ll go out even when it’s raining, and you will get wet.
  • 🗑️ Trash bags or dry bags — to cover luggage during rain; ours got soaked.
  • 🔋 Portable charger — there’s no power during the day, only at night.

It’s a rough-around-the-edges experience — you’ll be damp, maybe a little muddy, and definitely disconnected — but that’s also what makes it memorable.

🌿

— The Habit of Travel